ByWard Market Guide: What to See, Eat, and Do
The ByWard Market is the oldest and most well-known neighbourhood in Ottawa, and it has been operating as a public market since 1826. That makes it nearly as old as the city itself. For visitors, it is usually the first stop and often the place that sets the tone for the entire trip.
But the Market is also one of those neighbourhoods that can disappoint if you do not know where to look. The tourist-facing businesses are mixed in with genuinely great spots, and the area extends further than most people realize. This guide will help you navigate it.
Getting Your Bearings
The ByWard Market covers roughly the area between Sussex Drive to the west, King Edward Avenue to the east, Rideau Street to the south, and St. Patrick Street to the north. The core of the market is the block around the ByWard Market building on ByWard Market Square, between York Street and George Street.
The outdoor vendor stalls operate from May through October, with the busiest days being Saturday and Sunday mornings. In winter, the outdoor market scales back significantly, but the indoor market building stays open year-round. The covered Parkdale Market on the west side of town is the Market's quieter sibling, and locals sometimes prefer it for produce.
Parliament Hill is a five-minute walk west on Wellington Street. The National Gallery of Canada is a five-minute walk north on Sussex Drive. The Rideau Canal locks are at the south end of the neighbourhood, right behind the Chateau Laurier. You are at the crossroads of the city's major attractions.
What to Eat
The Market has more restaurants per block than any other part of Ottawa, and quality ranges widely. Here are the ones worth seeking out.
Chez Lucien. A tiny, no-frills pub on Murray Street that has been serving some of the best burgers in Ottawa for decades. The fries are hand-cut, the beer selection is solid, and the atmosphere is completely unpretentious. Cash only. Expect a wait on weekends.
Supply and Demand. On York Street, this seafood-focused restaurant is one of the best in the Market. The menu changes frequently based on what is available, and the raw bar is excellent. Reservations recommended for dinner.
Play Food and Wine. Also on York Street, this small-plates restaurant has a creative menu and one of the best wine lists in the city. It is a good choice for a longer, more adventurous meal.
Zak's Diner. A classic greasy spoon on York Street that has been around since the 1980s. Giant portions, 24-hour weekend service (in season), and a retro diner atmosphere. Not fine dining, but exactly what you want at 11:00 PM after a night out.
La Bottega. On George Street, this Italian market and restaurant is a Market institution. The sandwiches are among the best in Ottawa, made with imported meats and cheeses. There is also a full restaurant next door with pasta and wood-fired pizza.
For coffee, try Little Victories on Dalhousie Street (one of Ottawa's best specialty coffee roasters), Happy Goat on George Street, or Ministry of Coffee on York Street. All are independently owned and serve excellent espresso.
The Market Building and Outdoor Vendors
The ByWard Market building itself is a squat brick structure on the square between York and George Streets. Inside, you will find a mix of prepared food vendors, specialty shops, and a few restaurants. The quality of the indoor vendors has improved in recent years, and it is worth walking through even if you do not buy anything.
The outdoor vendors set up on the cobblestone square and along adjacent streets from spring through fall. In peak summer, you will find local produce, cut flowers, maple products, baked goods, and crafts. The best produce comes from the local farms that have been selling here for generations. Look for vendors from just outside the city in places like Navan, Vars, and Cumberland.
Saturday morning is the prime time for the outdoor market. Arrive by 9:00 AM for the best selection and the most pleasant browsing. By noon, it gets crowded and the best items are picked over.
Beyond Food: What Else to See
The National Gallery of Canada. Just north of the Market on Sussex Drive, the gallery's striking glass and granite building is hard to miss. The Canadian and Indigenous art collection is the main draw, but the European galleries and the reconstructed Rideau Street Convent chapel inside the building are also remarkable. Admission is free for the permanent collection on certain days; check the National Gallery website for current hours and pricing.
Notre-Dame Cathedral Basilica. On Sussex Drive between St. Patrick and Guigues, this is the oldest church in Ottawa, dating to the 1840s. The interior, with its ornate wooden carvings and painted ceiling, is genuinely impressive. It is open to visitors outside of mass times and there is no admission charge.
Tin House Court. Tucked behind the buildings on York Street, this small courtyard features the remains of a folk-art tin facade created by a local artist in the 1970s. It is quirky and easy to miss, but it is one of those small discoveries that make wandering the Market worthwhile.
Sussex Drive toward Rideau Hall. If you walk north on Sussex past the National Gallery, you enter one of Ottawa's most beautiful streets. The embassies along this stretch occupy grand heritage homes, and the road leads to Rideau Hall, the official residence of the Governor General. The grounds are open to the public and free to visit.
Nightlife and Evening
The Market is Ottawa's main nightlife district, which is both its appeal and its drawback depending on what you are looking for. On Friday and Saturday nights, the Clarence Street and York Street bars get busy and loud. If that is your scene, places like The Heart and Crown (an Irish pub complex on Clarence) and Métropolitain Brasserie offer different vibes within the same neighbourhood.
For a quieter evening, the cocktail bars on the periphery are better choices. Copper Spirits and Sights on York Street has craft cocktails and a rooftop patio with views of the Market and Parliament Hill. The Manx on Elgin Street, just outside the Market proper, is a basement pub with excellent beer and zero pretension.
Practical Tips
Parking in the Market is expensive and limited. The City of Ottawa operates several garages in the area, with the one on Clarence Street being the most central. Rates are typically $3 to $4 per hour. Street parking exists but fills quickly. If you are staying downtown, walk.
The Market is safe during the day but can feel rough around the edges late at night, particularly around the shelters on King Edward and Murray Streets. This is not dangerous for visitors, but it is worth being aware of.
In winter, the outdoor market essentially shuts down. The indoor market building stays open, and the restaurants operate year-round, but the neighbourhood loses much of its energy between November and April. If you are visiting in winter, combine a Market visit with the canal skating experience, which starts just a few blocks south.
For a broader look at Ottawa's neighbourhoods, our best neighbourhoods for a weekend stay guide compares the Market to other areas. If you plan to spend a day exploring this part of the city, our canal, market, and Parliament in one day itinerary maps out a walking route. And for dining ideas beyond the Market, our Elgin Street and canal day guide covers the next neighbourhood south.
The ByWard Market website maintains an up-to-date directory of vendors, restaurants, and events.