Elgin Street and the Canal: A Perfect Ottawa Day

If the ByWard Market is Ottawa's most famous neighbourhood, Elgin Street is its most livable. This is where the tourist zone gives way to something more authentic. The restaurants are genuinely good rather than conveniently located. The shops cater to residents rather than visitors. And the Rideau Canal, running parallel just one block to the west, provides one of the best urban walking corridors in the country.

Spending a day on Elgin Street and along the canal is one of the best things you can do in Ottawa. It requires almost no planning, costs as much or as little as you want, and gives you a feel for the city that the Parliament Hill and museum circuit simply cannot match.

Morning on Elgin Street

Elgin Street runs north-south from the National War Memorial at Confederation Square down to Lansdowne Park, a distance of about 1.5 kilometres. The interesting stretch for visitors starts around Gladstone Avenue and runs north to Laurier Avenue, though the entire street has its moments.

Start with breakfast or coffee. The Elgin Street Diner at the north end, near the war memorial, is a 24-hour institution that has been serving eggs and home fries since 1942. It is diner food done right: no pretension, generous portions, and strong coffee. If you want something more polished, Fauna on Elgin serves one of the best brunches in the city on weekends, though you will need a reservation.

For just coffee, Happy Goat has a location on Elgin that is bright and well-run. Bridgehead, an Ottawa-based chain, has a location nearby as well. Both roast their own beans and take the craft seriously without being insufferable about it.

After breakfast, walk the street. Elgin is lined with independent businesses that repay browsing. The Papery sells stationery and greeting cards. Collected Works is one of the best independent bookstores in the city. And various small boutiques come and go, but the overall character of the street remains consistent: local, independent, and a bit eclectic.

The Lord Elgin and Confederation Square

At the north end of Elgin Street, you hit Confederation Square, which is the ceremonial heart of Ottawa. The National War Memorial stands at the centre, and the National Arts Centre occupies the south side. The Lord Elgin Hotel, a limestone landmark on the east side of the square, has been a gathering place since 1941 and is one of the most recognizable buildings in the city.

If you are not staying at the Lord Elgin, the lobby bar is still worth a visit. It has the atmosphere of a grand hotel without the stuffiness, and the views of the war memorial and Confederation Square through the windows are excellent.

From Confederation Square, you can see the Chateau Laurier to the east, Parliament Hill to the north across Wellington Street, and the Rideau Canal locks descending toward the Ottawa River. This intersection of landmarks is the geographic and symbolic centre of Ottawa, and it is worth pausing here to take it in.

The Canal Path South

From the locks at Confederation Square, the Rideau Canal stretches south through the city for about 6 kilometres before reaching Hog's Back Falls. The paved path along the canal is one of Ottawa's finest features, and you can walk, run, or cycle the entire length.

Walking south from the locks, the canal passes through a landscaped corridor with mature trees, heritage bridges, and views of some of Ottawa's most distinctive neighbourhoods. The first stretch, from the locks to the Pretoria Bridge, runs alongside Elgin Street and gives you the option of ducking over to the street for coffee or food at any point.

At the Pretoria Bridge, you cross into the stretch that borders the Glebe on the west side. The path continues past Lansdowne Park and eventually reaches Dow's Lake, a widened section of the canal with a pavilion, boat rentals, and the Arboretum on its south shore.

The walk from Confederation Square to Dow's Lake takes about an hour at a comfortable pace. In fall, the trees along the canal turn brilliant colours, and the reflections on the still water are beautiful. In summer, the path is busy with cyclists and joggers but never feels cramped.

Lunch Options

If you time your canal walk right, you will be ready for lunch somewhere along Elgin Street or in the Glebe by early afternoon. Here are a few suggestions.

The Manx. A basement pub on Elgin Street that has been one of Ottawa's best-kept secrets for years. The food is surprisingly good for a pub, with daily specials that lean toward comfort food done well. The beer list is excellent, and the atmosphere is dark, cozy, and unpretentious.

Riviera. On Sparks Street, just off Elgin, Riviera is one of the best restaurants in Ottawa. It is pricier, but the lunch menu is more accessible than dinner. The room is gorgeous, housed in a former bank building, and the cooking is creative without being fussy.

Sushi 88. On Elgin Street, this small Japanese restaurant serves excellent sushi at reasonable prices. It is nothing fancy, but the fish is fresh and the maki rolls are well-made. Good for a lighter lunch after a morning walk.

The Green Door. On Main Street, a short walk east of the canal, this pay-by-weight vegetarian restaurant has been an Ottawa institution since 1988. The food is wholesome, the portions are up to you, and the vibe is relaxed. It is not on Elgin, but it is close enough to be part of the day.

Afternoon: Lansdowne and the Glebe

If you have continued south along the canal or down Elgin Street, you will reach Lansdowne Park at the Bank Street bridge. Lansdowne is a mixed-use development built around the historic Aberdeen Pavilion, a beautiful iron-and-glass exhibition hall from 1898. The Saturday farmers' market here (May through October) is one of the best in the city.

From Lansdowne, Bank Street runs south through the Glebe. This is one of Ottawa's most walkable shopping streets, with independent bookshops (Octopus Books), record stores (Compact Music), clothing boutiques, and plenty of cafes. It has a similar energy to Elgin Street but with a more residential, neighbourhood feel.

If the weather is good, the Arboretum at the south end of Dow's Lake is a beautiful place to spend an hour. The collection includes over 2,000 varieties of trees and shrubs, and it is free and open to the public. In fall, the maples and oaks put on an extraordinary show.

Evening

For dinner back on Elgin, The Town on Elgin Street is a reliable neighbourhood restaurant with a patio and a menu that covers a lot of ground without being unfocused. El Camino, also on Elgin, serves excellent tacos and mezcal cocktails in a lively, casual setting.

If you prefer a quieter evening, the canal path is lovely at dusk. The light on the water changes beautifully, and the foot traffic thins out as the sun sets. Walking north from Dow's Lake back to Confederation Square as the city lights come on is one of the nicest evening walks you can take in Ottawa.

Making This Part of a Bigger Trip

An Elgin Street and canal day pairs perfectly with a ByWard Market morning. Start in the Market, work your way south to Elgin, and finish at the canal. It is an easy, natural flow through the city's core.

For more neighbourhood ideas, our best neighbourhoods for a weekend stay guide covers the areas along this route. The ByWard Market guide has the details on the Market area. And if you are planning a car-free trip, our walkable weekend guide uses Elgin and the canal as a central spine.

For patio recommendations in warmer months, our best Ottawa patios guide covers Elgin Street and beyond. The National Capital Commission's Rideau Canal page has current information on path conditions and seasonal activities.